SOLVING LITTERBOX PROBLEMS

With careful analysis of the cat’s environment, specific factors can usually be identified which have contributed to the litterbox problem. The suggestions in the following article can help you get problems solved.

Based on a handout written by the Denver Dumb Friends League with the assistance of Suzanne Hetts, Ph.D., Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist. Copyright© owned by the Denver Dumb Friends League.

Planet Urine’s Litterbox Training for Pets, Cats and Kittens

Housesoiling is one of the most common behavior problems in cats. It is normal for cats to have surface and location preferences for where and on what they like to eliminate. It’s only when these preferences include the laundry basket, the bed, or the Persian rug that these normal behaviors become problems. With careful analysis of the cat’s environment, specific factors can usually be identified which have contributed to the litterbox problem.

Myths and Misconceptions

Cats don’t stop using the litterbox because they are mad or upset and are trying to get revenge for something that “offended” or “angered them” – that is a myth.

Because humans act for these reasons, it is easy to assume that cats do as well. But cats, or other animals, do not act out of spite or revenge, so it won’t help to give your cat special privileges and hope she’ll start using the box again. If you’ve had your cat declawed, that is not likely to be the cause of the problem either. Studies show that declawed cats are no more likely to have litterbox problems (or to bite) than are cats with their claws. “Stress” (a term that has many meanings) is not often the reason a cat stops using the litterbox. If stress is involved, you should see other behavioral or physical changes as well, such as, weight loss, fearful behavior, or changes in eating or sleeping habits. Punishment is not a way to resolve a litterbox problem. First, check with your veterinarian. Health problems can cause litterbox problems. Cats don’t always act sick, even when they are. Only a trip to the veterinarian for a thorough physical exam, which may include a urinalysis, can rule out a medical problem.

Spraying

If your cat is given a clean bill of health by your veterinarian, the next step is to determine whether your cat is spraying or urinating outside the box. Spraying is urine marking behavior, and is a cat’s way of indicating ownership of her territory. Marking is triggered by the presence of other cats. It can occur because neighborhood cats are “hanging around” outside, or because of conflicts between cats in a multi-cat household. Unfamiliar objects, smells, or people in the house can also cause the behavior. Spraying has nothing to do with litterbox habits. When a cat sprays, she stands up, backs up against a vertical surface and deposits urine at “cat height” against curtains, doors, walls, furniture, etc.. Her tail may quiver and she may alternately lift her hind feet while she sprays. Male or female, spayed or neutered cats of any age may spray, although the behavior is more common in unaltered males.

Spraying problems can be drastically reduced or even completely resolved by:

Spaying or neutering any unaltered cats in the household.
Discouraging the presence of neighborhood cats. Try blocking off windows from where your cat can see neighborhood cats. Discourage their presence with aversive odors.

Resolving conflicts between cats in the household. If family cats are fighting or skirmishing with each other, you’ll need to help them get along better. Make sure good things happen to each of them in the presence of the other. Punishing the cats is likely to make the problem worse. You may need to separate them temporarily while working on the problem.

Talking to your veterinarian about possible short-term anti-anxiety drug therapy.

Make the sprayed areas less attractive by using No-P™ Housebreaking Aid. The No-P™ Housebreaking Aid eliminates urine and feces scent so your cat will not re-urinate or re-defecate in same area after cleaning!

Elimination Problems

If you are finding puddles of urine or feces on the floor, then your cat is choosing not to eliminate in the litterbox. The most common reasons why cats stop using the litterbox are an aversion to the box, surface preferences, location preferences, or a combination of all three. You’ll need to do some detective work to determine the reason for your cat’s change in behavior.

Aversion to the Litterbox

This means that your cat has decided that the litterbox is an unpleasant place to be. The box may not be clean enough for her, she may have experienced painful urination or defection in the box, she may have been startled by a noise while using the box, or perhaps she has been “ambushed” while in the box by either another cat, a child, a dog, or even by you if you were attempting to catch her for some reason. This kind of an aversion may require you to completely replace the litterbox so it no longer reminds your cat of unpleasant experiences. You may need to buy a new box, put it in a new location and use a different type of litter. Remember to keep the box clean – scoop out feces ever day, and completely change the litter anywhere from every three days to once a week.

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